Category: Natural Hair Care

Shea Butter Magic

Shea butter has vitamin A properties and is an excellent moisturizer with exceptional healing properties.

I recently made up this exceptional healing and thoroughly moisturizing formula for my hair.

It works on natural and tex lax and relaxed hair. It worked very well on my natural hair when I flat ironed it – it kept it moist and strait without bringing back the curlies!

So here it is.. enjoy and let me know what you think!

5oz Shea butter

3oz black castor
2oz Neem oil
2oz Avocado oil
2oz Burdock root oil
3oz Grapeseed oil

Put all in a blender until light and fluffy!!!!

You don’t have to measure the ingredients exactly just put the amount of oil you are comfortable with..

how much water does black hair need?

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The problem with black hair is that it is the driest of all the hair in the world!  Our scalps make some oil – but the little it makes never ventures down the hair shaft – because there’s just too many twists and turns!  Sealing our fate to inhabit the driest hair possible!  So what hope is there for your hair – how can you keep moisture in your hair – how much water does black hair need? The answer is – a lot!

Moisture, Moisture, Moisture and more moisture!

Whether your  hair is relaxed or natural – a lack of moisturisation will seal your fate.  Basically you will inherit, dry scalp, breakage and shedding.

So how important is moisture and how much water do you really need between those strands!

Since water is the ultimate moisturiser, water-based products are best for really getting the greatest moisture benefit.

Moisture is basically water, not oil or any other substance. Our hair needs water to maintain its elasticity or its ability to stretch. Without it, our hair feels dry and produces a snappy kind of breakage. Since water is the ultimate moisturiser, water-based products are best for really getting the greatest moisture benefit. 

Moisturisers are simply products that are water-based and nourish your hair deep within the strand. Products with moisturizing properties tend to be conditioners, leave-ins and other moisturizer sprays or creams

Good moisturizers will not contain  petrolatum, mineral oil, or lanolin. Avoid products that claim moisturizing benefits and contain these ingredients. There is nothing moisturizing about them! Petrolatum and mineral oil are sealants that seal out the precious moisture our hair needs.

All throughout the day, our hair loses moisture to the outside environment. In order to keep our moisture in our hair, it’s a good idea to seal in the moisture with a heavier product. Oil.

Natural oils like jojoba, olive, carrot, and coconut oil work best.  I have also experimented with burdock oil and papaya oil which are lovely on the hair.

Applying oil to the hair coats it and traps the moisture  inside and the moisture that is outside, outside. If you use oils without a moisturizer (or before one) the oil will seal the moisture out of the hair strand and lead to a coated feel and eventual dryness. Fighting hair breakage and achieving moisturizing success is all in the order in which you apply your products.

Remember, if you apply an oil product to your hair before you have added a moisturising product, you have created a seal on your hair strand that water and moisture cannot penetrate.

So basically after you apply a spray moisturiser or cream moisturiser follow up with a oil of your choice.  Re-apply a spray moisturiser every few hours – morning and night should be enough.  Get a adequate supply of water into the scalp and hair and gently massage.  Follow up with a wide spaced comb to the strands.

How much water does your hair get?








Protective styling for natural hair – working with knots!

A common problem that many kinky and tightly coiled naturals face is single strand knotting,  Single strand knots occur when individual kinky, coiled strands wrap around themselves or connect and entwine with other strands.  Such knotting often increase when textured hair is allowed to shrink back tightly to the scalp after cleansing and is worn in this shrunken state.  Wash and gos, braid outs and twist outs are common triggers for single strand knotting, especially in longer natural hair.

The massive and annoying tangling and breakage that results from single strand knotting can work against length retention in natural hair quite dramatically

When wearing my hair out – I normally snip about 3 knots a week – that’s a lot of hair!

Keeping strands moisturized and protein balanced and oiled does help!

Reducing styling manipulation by wearing buns helps protect against knotting.

Stretching with a blow dryer helps greatly! but to keep the hair from drying out stretching the  hair with elastic bands (ponytail holders) along the length of the hair to keep it stretched.  Banding can be done on wet or dry hair: however wet or damp hair will lengthen more easily.   The technique is to separate hair into eight to ten sections.  Dampen and detangle one section of hair at a time and place a band at the  start, middle and end, allow to dry.  Alternatively a hooded dryer may be used.

The result will be stretched out, lengthier natural tresses!


How do you keep your knots at bay?




Gel-free styling

One of the best options to go gel free but still have the option of wearing sleek, slick styles is to skip the gel and use a water misting/satin scarf method.

Mist your hair with water or a moisturizing or conditioning leave in spray to soften the hydrogen bonds and set your hair.

Next hold the hair flat by tying it down with a scarf  for 10 -15 minutes.

Remove the scarf and enjoy your soft  gel free tresses!

Extra conditioning? apply a hair butter to hair after misting with the leave-in and then tie the scarf down for control.  Voila!beauty


Why is my hair breaking….

Breakage from moisture deficiency occurs when the hair is not receiving enough hydration on a daily or weekly basis.  The hair’s moisture can be affected by heat styling or chemical processes.

Some examples are :

Using a blow dryer

Using a blow dryer on your hair is not a good idea because it pulls out moisture and causes the hair to become dry and break.  Instead set the hair on rollers and use a hooded dryer.  If you insist on blow drying I would recommend that you use a very good heat protector and use a radial brush to gently blow dry each section of hair.

Using a Marcel Flat Irons

Using a Marcel flat irons is damaging to the hair because the tools heated in the oven have uncontrolled heat. You never really know what the temperature is on the tools and the extreme heat will cause damage. Instead use ceramic irons where the heat can be controlled.

Using pressing comb

Just like a using a Marcel flat irons, using tools such as a pressing comb that is heated on the stove top of the oven is damaging. The heat is uncontrolled and this calls for a high change of heat damage to your hair. Instead use ceramic irons where the heat can be controlled.

Water and Protein moisturizers

The cause could simply be a lack of not hydrating the hair enough from within (water intake) and not enough moisturization deep conditioning/daily water based moisturizers.

Protein moisturizers are good as they strengthen the hair by supporting the cuticle by filling up broken spaces along the hair line and adding structure to the entire length of the hair strand.


Moisturization – the key to long healthy hair

Moisture levels

The key to long and healthy hair and preventing dryness is moisturizing.  There are many good moisturizers now on the market.  Select one moisture based conditioner for weekly use.    Some conditioners contain various types of lightweight protein that may respond differently to different types of textured hair.  A little trial and error will be required to determine the conditioning products that best suit your hair’s needs.

A moisturizer is best used after your hair is shampooed and conditioned, or every one to three days or as needed for hydration.

Choose your moisturizer and saturate each section from root to tip, you may even add a cream moisturizer should you wish, a selection is also listed.  The cream moisturizer is useful the day after wash day when you emerge from sleep with crispy hair that was washed the night before!  It doesn’t matter what order you choose water moisturizer or cream; but to finish things off you must seal the hair with oil.  Some people prefer coconut oil, olive oil, I like grape seed oil. Many people get confused as to what oil does – this mainly coats the hair and keeps the moisture in after the hair has been moisturized, which is important.

After your hair has been conditioned and oiled feel free to style! I normally end up doing twists and the next day; wear my hair in an up do like an afro puff. One word about twists is to make sure that when you do them you unravel bottom up as opposed from top down.  That way you reduce knotting the ends.  The ends very quickly form knots especially if you have coily hair!.

The best water based moisturizers do not contain mineral oil, rather they contain a mixture of water, humectants and natural oils or butters.

Favorite products

Organic Root Stimulator

Profectiv Damage Free A-T leave in

Organics Texture my way – curl keeper

Leisure Curl – dry hair moisturizer balance spray


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Quick moisturizing routine

Next day moisture – THE NEXT MORNING!

Wanting to get dressed and get out the door can be a challenge – here’s how to moisture that hair quickly and efficiently.


What you need: Choose from product list below.

ü  Oil Moisturizer or water spray

ü  Cream moisturizer

ü  Shea butter or oil

ü  An as alternative add a gel to style


  1. On rising, saturate hair with your chosen moisturizer, if using water just lightly damp the hair – do not wet it – otherwise you will have shrinkage problems! (depending on your hair type – especially 4b/cs)
  2. Using a cream moisturizer gently point this towards the ends.  It’s the ends that need protection.  The ends are the driest of the hair because it is the oldest!
  3. Add your choice of butter or oil throughout lengths of hair, paying attention to the ends.  Oil seals the hair and keeps moisture in!
  4. Add a gel – the benefits of gel are: if you have coils in your hair, this will make your hair look very pretty.  It keeps hair in place, holds it flat and a range of styles can be achieved with this look.

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How to improve slow growing natural hair!

After the initial two years of growing natural hair – you will be amazed if your not already how hair growth can slow down.  This of course is due to several factors, mismanagement by continual blow drying, weaves that didn’t work but itched all day! age, menopausal, diet as well has how you handle your hair whether its out all day to everyday, protection styling or low manipulation – which is good.  Either way your’ll be glad to get some help to push those follicles out!

Here it is:

Be sure to wash hair once a week with a good quality moisturizing shampoo/conditioner;  low sulfate preferable.

  1. Apply a deep moisturizer after every wash or use olive oil (use steamer) for at least 20 minutes.
  2. Be sure to trim once a year  – once is sufficient for slow growing hair..
  3. Use a Protein conditioner every 4 months or as needed.
  4. Seal hair with Olive oil or jojoba every day after you apply moisturizer
  5. Take vitamin D , Omega oil and Biotin to rapidly improve growth

Good luck!


Whats your story?

How to stop hair breakage at shoulder length – natural black hair


Hair grows quickly from a shaved head to a small afro – mine did – so did yours I gather! It went from afro to afro puff then from the ears to the neck and from ears to the shoulder.  Arriving at shoulder length is not just one of the fastest growth points but it is also the heaviest breaking point!

While waiting for your hair to reach shoulder length wearing puffs, twists and braids can be helpful in maintaining and supporting the growth of your hair.  

Once it reaches shoulder length special care should be taken as you look over your routine and modify any changes that need to be made.  Such changes should involve taking special care of your hair ends; hair can be entwined in collars, coat and your shoulder bag!  Those ends are really fragile.  To prevent this use a protective style that enables you to pin up your hair into a bun, or put them in a baggie covered by hat or scarf or a hair clip with the ends covered or a phony afro puff etc. There are so many protective styles to choose from – just keep those ends covered..

Fortify the ends at night with moisturiser and a heavy cream or spray with a homemade moisturiser using aloe vera juice, mineral water and castor oil. Cover with your usual silk scarf.

Are you past shoulder length yet?





Texturizing black natural hair – are you tempted?

Textures which may benefit Texturizing..

The textures that seem to benefit from Texturizing is 4a/b and c, especially c – this hair texture is very tightly coiled..

What does the process involve?
In the first instance you need to purchase a texturizer like the one shown.
This texture softener

is the best one to use and has favourable benefits. Relaxers have been used but they are very strong and the chances of you coming away with relaxed hair rather than texturized is very likely – best not to chance it!.
This product has been designed to loosen the coils slowly and pre -packed with oil and neutraliser etc… You have between 15 and 18 minutes to texturize a virgin head of hair or new roots. Just enough time to soften the hair – just loosen the curl. The aim of this is to soften the hair texture leaving it with curls or waves but leaving much of the volume in the hair. The texture of the hair after the texturizer depends a lot on the initial curl pattern of the hair. Large corkscrew curls will become S-shaped curls after a texturizer, tighter curls will look loosened and hair with no definite curl pattern tends to get waves

Basically the difference between texturizer and relaxers is the chemical makeup. When you relax you break two of the bonds that coat the 3 layers of the hair, so you are basically left with one layer of protection whereas with texturizer, less bonds are broken leaving you with more protection, 2 of the 3 layers that coat each strand. When chemical bonds are broken, hair is vulnerable to breakage scientifically speaking your hair is dead, sodium hydroxide relaxers do a permanent change in your hair that cannot be reversed. A texturizer does not entirely change the physical properties it rearranges physical properties giving you a softer curl pattern.

It is normally carried out twice a year for most people who texturize!

What are the pros and cons of texturing?
Softer and lighter hair all round..
Softer coils that is easier to manage
Less shrinkage
The hair has a lot of elasticity left in it so it’s less prone to breakage than relaxed hair
Better retention of hair style that stands up to the elements
Quicker to style hair with heated tools and much quicker wash n gos!
Better retention of growth rate – a plus!
Sodium hydroxide relaxers do a permanent change in your hair that cannot be reversed.
Hair slightly weakened
Tightly coil hair will just become looser – you won’t go from a 4c to a 3c!

Helpful tips
Apply 2 minute Aphogee intensive protein treatment – shown here

This puts back some of the protein that you have lost in the initial process.

after the Texturizing process and after you have neutralised your hair.
Deep condition with oil of your choice, olive or sweet almond oil

Is very good, after a protein treatment and/or steam hair with conditioner for 30mins. This will bring softness and moisture to hair after Texturizing and protein treatment.
Moisturize. Moisturise -also make your own shear butter and add to ends of hair..
Your newly texturized hair will feel dry at first but in a few days with spring to life! Just follow my tips above!

Are you thinking of texlaxing?